Complete Residential Roofing Process: Start to Finish
Professional Guide to Full Roof Replacement from Arrival to Final Inspection
⚠️ SAFETY WARNING
Residential roofing is one of the most dangerous construction activities - falls are the leading cause of construction deaths.
- Falls from roofs are often fatal - proper fall protection is MANDATORY
- Heavy materials (shingle bundles 70-80 lbs) cause back injuries
- Power tools on roofs are extremely dangerous
- Debris falling from roofs can injure people below
- Heat exhaustion is common in summer (roof temps reach 150°F+)
- This guide is educational - PROFESSIONAL INSTALLATION STRONGLY RECOMMENDED
Overview: The Complete Roofing Process
A professional roof replacement typically takes 2-4 days for an average home (1,500 sq ft roof). This guide covers every step from arrival to final cleanup, exactly as we do it at RJ Roofing Bros.
Timeline:
- Day 1 (Morning): Site setup, material delivery, tear-off
- Day 1 (Afternoon): Deck inspection/repair, underlayment, drip edge
- Day 2: Shingle installation, flashing, penetrations
- Day 3: Ridge cap, final inspection, cleanup
PRE-ARRIVAL PREPARATION (Day Before)
Homeowner Preparation
Exterior:
- Move vehicles from driveway (need space for dumpster and boom truck)
- Remove items from walls (vibration will knock things down)
- Trim overhanging branches within 6 feet of roof
- Clear path to electrical panel (may need to shut off power)
- Protect landscaping (cover plants near house)
- Notify neighbors (noise, dust, trucks)
Interior:
- Remove items from attic (dust will fall through)
- Cover attic items with tarps
- Remove fragile items from walls (vibration)
- Plan for pets (keep them inside or away from work area)
Contractor Preparation
Material Ordering:
- Calculate squares needed (roof sq ft ÷ 100, add 10% waste)
- Order shingles (ensure same lot number for color consistency)
- Order underlayment, ice & water shield, drip edge, ridge cap
- Schedule boom truck delivery (if applicable)
- Arrange dumpster delivery
Crew & Equipment:
- Crew size: 3-5 workers for average home
- Tools: Roofing nailers, compressor, ladders, safety equipment
- Verify weather forecast (no rain for 3-4 days)
DAY 1 MORNING: SITE SETUP & MATERIAL DELIVERY
Step 1: Site Setup (7:00 AM - 7:30 AM)
Dumpster Placement:
- Position dumpster: As close to house as possible (minimizes carrying distance)
- Protect driveway: Place plywood under dumpster wheels
- Clear landing zone: Area below roof edge for debris chute
Ground Protection:
- Lay tarps: Around house perimeter to catch debris and nails
- Protect landscaping: Cover plants, gardens, AC units with plywood
- Set up debris chute: From roof to dumpster (if applicable)
Safety Setup:
- Post warning signs: "Caution: Roofing Work Above"
- Rope off work area: Keep people away from falling debris zone
- Inspect ladders: Ensure stability, proper angle (4:1 ratio)
Step 2: Material Delivery (7:30 AM - 8:30 AM)
Boom Truck Delivery (Professional Method):
- Boom truck arrives: Hydraulic crane on truck bed
- Position truck: Within reach of roof (typically 30-40 feet)
- Extend boom: Hydraulic arm extends over roof
- Lift bundles: Shingles lifted directly onto roof
- Distribute evenly (prevents overloading one area)
- Place on ridge or strong points (not in valleys)
- Typically 3-4 bundles per stack
- Advantages: Fast (15-30 minutes), reduces crew fatigue, safer than hand-carrying
Manual Delivery (DIY/Small Jobs):
- Stage materials at ground level: Near ladder access
- Carry bundles up ladder:
- Shingle bundles: 70-80 lbs (2-person carry recommended)
- Use ladder hoist or pulley system
- Never carry more than you can safely handle
- Distribute on roof: Spread weight evenly
Materials Delivered to Roof:
- Shingle bundles (3 bundles = 1 square = 100 sq ft coverage)
- Underlayment rolls
- Ice & water shield rolls
- Ridge cap bundles
- Starter strip
Materials Staged at Ground:
- Drip edge (eave and rake)
- Valley flashing
- Pipe boots, vents, flashing
- Nails, roofing cement, caulk
Step 3: Tear-Off (8:30 AM - 12:00 PM)
⚠️ CRITICAL SAFETY
Tear-off is the most dangerous phase. Loose shingles are slippery. Nails are everywhere. Debris is falling. Full crew awareness is essential.
Tear-Off Process:
- Start at ridge: Work from top down (shingles overlap downward)
- Use roofing shovel/fork:
- Slide under shingles
- Pry up and push toward eave
- Work in sections (don't expose entire roof at once)
- Remove all layers:
- Shingles
- Underlayment (felt paper)
- Old drip edge
- All nails (critical - protruding nails puncture new underlayment)
- Debris management:
- Push debris to eave
- Use debris chute to dumpster
- Or throw directly into dumpster (if close enough)
- Keep roof clear of debris (tripping hazard)
- Nail removal:
- Pull all protruding nails with hammer or cat's paw
- Pound down nails that can't be pulled
- Sweep deck thoroughly
Common Tear-Off Challenges:
- Multiple layers: Some roofs have 2-3 layers (takes longer)
- Stuck shingles: Heat-sealed shingles are difficult to remove
- Damaged deck: Rotten plywood discovered during tear-off
DAY 1 AFTERNOON: DECK PREP & UNDERLAYMENT
Step 4: Deck Inspection & Repair (12:00 PM - 2:00 PM)
Inspection Process:
- Walk entire deck: Check for soft spots, rot, damage
- Look for water stains: Indicates previous leaks
- Check deck thickness: Minimum 7/16" OSB or 1/2" plywood
- Verify rafter spacing: Should be 16" or 24" on center
- Inspect for sagging: Indicates structural issues
Common Deck Issues:
- Soft spots: Rot from previous leaks (replace affected sheets)
- Delamination: OSB layers separating (replace)
- Gaps between sheets: Normal (1/8" expansion gap), but check for excessive gaps
- Protruding nails: Pull or pound down
Deck Repair:
- Mark damaged areas: Chalk outline around rot/damage
- Cut out damaged section:
- Use circular saw set to deck thickness
- Cut to nearest rafter (need solid nailing surface)
- Install new plywood/OSB:
- Same thickness as existing deck
- Nail every 6 inches along rafters
- Leave 1/8" gap for expansion
- Photograph damage: Document for homeowner/insurance
Step 5: Install Drip Edge at Eaves (2:00 PM - 2:30 PM)
Why Eaves First:
Drip edge at eaves goes UNDER underlayment. Drip edge at rakes goes OVER underlayment. This ensures proper water flow.
Installation:
- Start at one end: Align drip edge flush with fascia
- Nail every 12 inches: Along top edge
- Overlap 2 inches: Where pieces meet
- Extend past fascia: 1/2 inch overhang into gutter
- Install along entire eave: All eave edges
Step 6: Install Ice & Water Shield (2:30 PM - 3:30 PM)
Critical Waterproofing Layer:
Ice & water shield is a self-adhering waterproof membrane. This is your last line of defense against ice dams and wind-driven rain.
Installation:
- Start at eaves: Apply first course along entire eave
- Extend 36-72 inches:
- Code minimum: 36 inches from eave
- RJ Roofing Bros standard: 72 inches (Hope/Harrison)
- Covers area prone to ice dams
- Peel and stick:
- Remove backing paper
- Press firmly to deck
- Use roller to ensure adhesion
- Overlap 6 inches: Where courses meet
- Apply to valleys:
- 36 inches wide (18" each side of valley center)
- Full length of valley
- Seal penetrations: Around chimneys, skylights, plumbing vents
Step 7: Install Synthetic Underlayment (3:30 PM - 5:00 PM)
Primary Waterproofing Layer:
Synthetic underlayment is your primary defense. We NEVER use felt paper - synthetic is superior in every way.
Installation:
- Start at eaves:
- Align with drip edge
- Overlap ice & water shield by 6 inches
- Roll horizontally: Work up the roof
- Overlap 6 inches: Each course overlaps the one below
- Nail or staple:
- Every 12 inches along seams
- Every 24 inches in field
- Cap nails or staples (large head)
- Keep wrinkle-free: Smooth as you go
- Overlap ridges: 6 inches over peak
Step 8: Install Drip Edge at Rakes (5:00 PM - 5:30 PM)
Rake Drip Edge Goes OVER Underlayment:
- Apply over underlayment: Along gable ends (rakes)
- Nail every 12 inches: Through underlayment into deck
- Overlap 2 inches: Where pieces meet
End of Day 1: Weatherproofing Check
Critical: Roof must be weatherproof overnight.
- All underlayment installed
- No exposed deck
- Tarps over any incomplete areas
- Tools and materials secured
DAY 2: SHINGLE INSTALLATION
Step 9: Install Valley Flashing (7:00 AM - 8:00 AM)
Open Valley Method (Our Standard):
- Center flashing in valley: 24-36 inch wide metal
- Nail edges only: 1 inch from edge, every 12 inches
- Overlap upslope: 12 inches where pieces meet
- Seal laps: With roofing cement
Step 10: Install Starter Strip (8:00 AM - 9:00 AM)
Critical First Course:
- Use starter strip shingles: Pre-made or cut regular shingles
- Align with drip edge: Overhang 1/2 to 3/4 inch
- Nail 3-4 inches from edge: Above adhesive strip
- Butt joints tightly: No gaps between pieces
- Install along eaves and rakes: Entire perimeter
Step 11: Establish Chalk Lines (9:00 AM - 9:30 AM)
Ensure Straight Courses:
- Measure shingle exposure: Typically 5-5/8 inches for architectural
- Snap horizontal lines: Every 2-3 courses (10-17 inches)
- Snap vertical lines: Every 3-4 feet to maintain alignment
- Use contrasting chalk: Red or blue (not white)
Step 12: Install Field Shingles (9:30 AM - 5:00 PM)
Nailing Pattern (CRITICAL):
- Standard areas: 4 nails per shingle (code minimum)
- High-wind areas: 6 nails per shingle (Hope, Chilliwack, Agassiz)
- Nail placement:
- Just below adhesive strip
- 1 inch from edges
- Flush with shingle surface (not over-driven, not under-driven)
Installation Process:
- First course:
- Align with chalk line
- Overhang drip edge 1/2 to 3/4 inch
- Nail properly (4-6 nails per shingle)
- Subsequent courses:
- Offset joints 6+ inches from course below
- Align with chalk lines every 2-3 courses
- Maintain consistent 5-5/8 inch exposure
- Work across and up
- Valley cuts:
- Snap chalk line 2-3 inches from valley center
- Cut shingles along line
- Clip corners 45 degrees
- Seal cut edges with roofing cement
- Rake cuts:
- Overhang 1/2 to 3/4 inch past drip edge
- Cut from top for clean edge
Step 13: Flash Penetrations (Throughout Day 2)
Plumbing Vents:
- Install pipe boot: Slide over pipe, nail flange
- Shingle over flange: Top and sides covered, bottom exposed
- Seal with caulk: Around pipe-to-boot junction
Roof Vents:
- Position vent: Over opening in deck
- Nail flange: To deck
- Shingle over flange: Top and sides covered
Chimneys (Complex - See Dedicated Guide):
- Base flashing at bottom
- Step flashing on sides (one piece per course)
- Counter flashing embedded in mortar
- Cricket on upslope side (if chimney is 30+ inches wide)
DAY 3: RIDGE CAP & FINAL DETAILS
Step 14: Install Ridge Cap Shingles (7:00 AM - 10:00 AM)
Final Waterproofing:
- Use ridge cap shingles: Pre-made or cut from regular shingles
- Start at end opposite prevailing wind: Wind blows over laps, not under
- Overlap 5-6 inches: Each cap overlaps previous
- Nail each side:
- 1 inch from edge
- 5-1/2 inches from end
- 2 nails per cap (one each side)
- Seal final cap: Dab of roofing cement under last cap
Step 15: Final Inspection (10:00 AM - 11:00 AM)
Quality Control Checklist:
- ✓ All shingles properly nailed (no visible nails, no lifted edges)
- ✓ Straight courses (no waves or dips)
- ✓ Proper overhang at eaves and rakes (1/2 to 3/4 inch)
- ✓ Valley cuts clean and sealed
- ✓ Ridge caps secure and overlapping correctly
- ✓ All penetrations properly flashed
- ✓ No exposed underlayment or ice & water shield
- ✓ No debris on roof
Step 16: Cleanup (11:00 AM - 1:00 PM)
Thorough Site Cleanup:
- Roof cleanup:
- Remove all debris, packaging, cutoffs
- Sweep entire roof
- Check gutters for debris
- Ground cleanup:
- Magnetic sweep (picks up nails)
- Run magnet over entire property (driveway, lawn, walkways)
- Multiple passes (nails are everywhere)
- Remove tarps: Shake out debris before folding
- Clean gutters: Remove granules and debris
- Haul away dumpster: Schedule pickup
- Final walkthrough with homeowner: Show completed work
PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS: RJ ROOFING BROS
What Sets Professional Installation Apart
1. Proper Nailing (6-Nail Protocol)
- We use 6 nails per shingle in Fraser Valley (code requires 4)
- Wind uplift resistance is critical in our area
- Proper nail depth (flush, not over-driven)
2. Extended Ice & Water Shield
- We install 72 inches at eaves (code requires 36")
- Full valley coverage (36" wide minimum)
- Around all penetrations
3. Synthetic Underlayment (Always)
- We NEVER use felt paper
- Synthetic is waterproof, tear-resistant, and lasts 30+ years
- Felt absorbs moisture and degrades
4. Open Valley Method
- Superior water shedding
- Easier to maintain
- Longer lifespan than closed valleys
5. Thorough Cleanup
- Magnetic sweep (multiple passes)
- Gutter cleaning included
- Haul away all debris
Common Mistakes (DIY & Low-Quality Contractors)
1. Under-Nailing
Using 4 nails instead of 6. This is the #1 cause of shingle blow-offs in our area.
2. Skipping Ice & Water Shield
Saving $200-400 can cost $5,000-15,000 in water damage from ice dams.
3. Using Felt Paper
Felt degrades in 5-10 years. Synthetic lasts 30+ years.
4. Improper Flashing
90% of roof leaks are caused by flashing failures, not shingle failures.
5. Poor Cleanup
Nails left in driveway cause flat tires. Nails in lawn are dangerous.
The Bottom Line
A complete roof replacement is a complex, multi-day process requiring specialized knowledge, equipment, and experience. Every step matters - from tear-off to final cleanup.
At RJ Roofing Bros, we've perfected this process over 8+ years and hundreds of roofs. We know the details that prevent leaks and ensure longevity: 6-nail protocol, extended ice & water shield, synthetic underlayment, open valleys, and thorough cleanup. We warranty our work because we do it right.
DIY roofing saves $3,000-5,000 in labor but risks $10,000-20,000 in mistakes. Unless you have professional training and experience, hire a qualified contractor.
Ready for a professional roof replacement? Call (604) 997-1292 for a free quote.